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Dissertation

Natural Dyed Denim

The appeal of natural dyeing is the deep, clear color that it can create, which is simply not possible to express with synthetic dyes. Denim that is woven with yarns that are dyed to the core maintains its original color for a longer time and changes its aesthetic appearance more gradually.

Category:Products
Date:2024.05.07
Tags: #aizome #denim #indigo #indigocampingtrailer #naturalindigo #ss24 #visvim
0223905006005 SS 101XX JKT CMYK (N.D.)
Natural Dyed Denim. The left half image is in unworn condition, and the half image of the jacket displayed on the right is a jacket that has been worn and washed multiple times. Natural Dyed Denim is characterized by a gradual change in appearance without excessive discoloring taking place.

The different charms brought about by variations in the color of the core of each yarn

Even the same denim material can possess completely different characteristics that make each unique when utilizing a greater variety of dyes for the yarn as well as mixing up the dyeing methods. 

 

When dyeing yarns with natural indigo dye or mud dye, "Kasezome" or skein dyeing is the method that is used (*1).  A deeper hue is achieved by dipping a small bundle of yarn into the dye over and over again and as the process repeats the core of the yarns gets completely dyed.  As the dye itself is a natural product, the conditions of the dye are always changing, being affected by things like the weather.  These yarns have an ability to express rich colors where each bundle of yarn yields natural looking color spots that are each unique as a result of how the dye has changed. 

On the other spectrum, with synthetic indigo dye it becomes possible to prepare large amounts of dye and utilize machinery to complete the work whereas in most cases, instead of going with a more labor-intensive process like "Kasezome" (skein dyeing), the yarns are gathered in a rope like shape and dyed by "rope dyeing" that is executed by repeat soaks in a larger dye bath.  This dyeing method combined with the fact that synthetic indigo has difficulty penetrating other substances creates yarns where the core remains white no matter how dark the outer layer of yarn is dyed.

Left: 0124105006005 SS 101XX JKT DMGD-1010, Right: 0124105005016 SOCIAL SCULPTURE 00 DAMAGED-40
Indigo dyed denim. These styles are characterized by damaged details that are applied by the hands of skilled craftsmen that result in a natural worn in appearance. The beautiful fading that is visible vertically and unique to this Indigo dyed denim is particularly attractive.
Left:0223905005006 SOCIAL SCULPTURE 01 CMYK (N.D.)、Right:0224905005003 SOCIAL SCULPTURE 00 UNWSD N.D.
Natural Dyed Denim. Each half image of the denim pants displayed on the left are in unworn condition, and the half images of the denim pants displayed on the right have been worn and washed multiple times.

The appeal of natural dyeing is the deep, clear color that it can create, which is simply not possible to express with synthetic dyes.  Denim that is woven with yarns that are dyed to the core maintains its original color for a longer time and changes its aesthetic appearance more gradually.  Of course, the deep navy blue that is unique to indigo is an attractive color itself, however the most distinguishing feature is the "fading" that occurs as the white color of the core of the yarn becomes exposed through repeat wear and laundering.  The expressions can vary greatly as they reflect the wearer's character and habits. 

Both natural dyeing and synthetic indigo dyeing have great appeal.  We develop a vast mix of denim materials and products (*2) by changing up the combination of yarns being used for the warp and weft to take advantage of each individuality. 

1 Please have a look at the following pages that further explain the processes of "Natural Dye" as well as "Kasezome" (Skein-Dyeing).  

Aizome (Natural Indigo Dyeing)

Doro-Zome (Mud-Dyeing)

Kasezome(Natural Indigo Skein Dyeing)

2 Products that utilize natural dyed denim material are sold under the concept brand "Indigo Camping Trailer".  For more information regarding this brand, please access the page below. 

Indigo Camping Trailer

0223905007003 SOCIAL SCULPTURE SHIRT (N.D.)

A custom 8oz. denim material that applies a natural dyed yarn for its warp yarn.  The material is woven up with the assistance of an old-fashioned loom.  The resulting indigo hue has clarity and possesses a depth that is born from the knowledge and skills of a seasoned craftsmen who has cultivated their craft over many years of practice and great effort. With repeated wear one will experience and enjoy a natural faded appearance.

0223905006005 SS 101XX JKT CMYK (N.D.)

0223905005006 SOCIAL SCULPTURE 01 CMYK (N.D.)

A custom 14oz. denim material where both warp and weft yarns have been dyed with Natural Indigo.

This material is woven up using an old-fashioned loom. The loom also weaves with less tension than what is standard now and is characterized by a rich expression that presents "movement."  The deep clean indigo color is the result of the knowledge and skills of craftsmen that have cultivated their craft by spending a lot of time and exerting great effort over many years.  The color fade will progress gradually as the material is detailed with both warp and weft yarns that are thoroughly dyed to the core.

0224905005003 SOCIAL SCULPTURE 00 UNWSD N.D.

A custom 14oz. denim material where the warp is initially dyed with Natural Indigo, followed by a subsequent step of Mud dyeing.  This material is woven up using an old-fashioned loom. The loom also weaves with less tension than what is standard now and is characterized by a rich expression that presents "movement".  A unique color fading will appear that is distinct to natural dyeing.  The irregularly shaped donut buttons and rivets are also custom made.  Each component is applied to the garment and painted by the hands of seasoned craftsmen.

0224905006002 SS 101XX JKT CMYK UNWSD N.D.

A custom 14oz. denim material where the warp and weft yarns are initially dyed with Natural Indigo, followed by a subsequent step of Mud dyeing.  This material is woven up using an old-fashioned loom.  The loom also weaves with less tension than what is standard now and is characterized by a rich expression that presents "movement."  The color fade will progress gradually as the material is detailed with both warp and weft yarns that are thoroughly dyed to the core.