Gara-Bou

"Gara-Bou" is an original Japanese yarn-spinning machine with a mechanism that closely mimics hand-spinning techniques. Invented in 1876, this machine is characterized by the way that it gradually spins yarns.  It was originally powered by waterwheels on the banks of rivers, and is only about one percent as efficient as modern spinning machines. Yarns produced on a "Gara-Bou" machine are nonuniform nor finely spun, however, possess a unique warmth that is typically only seen in hand-spun yarn.

Excess cotton with uneven fiber lengths are shaped into an oblong bunch of cotton "yoriko", and then stuffed into a cylindrical container. In a vertical position, the cylinder is rotated about an axis allowing the cotton to be pulled up out of the cylinder and spun into yarn.  The rotation of the cylinder is controlled by a mechanism at the bottom of the machine, which alternates connecting and disconnecting the spinning gears from the cylinder. As the yarn being spun thickens, the cylinder is lifted upwards detaching itself from the spinning gear and temporarily stops rotating. Once the yarn thins out, it drops back down reattaching to resume spinning, gradually making the yarn thicker again. This repeating cycle yields a slubby, unevenly spun yarn.  

As the amount of remaining cotton decreases, the weights of the containers also fluctuate.  In order to control the thickness of the yarns, balance weights must be skillfully placed and adjusted by hand. Yarns spun at this very slow pace is a time- and energy-consuming process requiring the vigilant eye of a trained artisan at all times.

Yet producing such unique yarns, the use of this slow-process "Gara-Bou" machine has declined tremendously since the advent of modern mechanical spinning machines; there is currently only one spinning house left in operation. Please take a close look at this preciously made material with your hands; you will find an ineffable character in the bumpy, uneven fabric seldom found in modern textiles.